Everyday Crochet Bra Pattern

Introduction

Hello everyone, I’m back again with a new pattern for you all to enjoy! This week we’re working on making a crochet bra. Yes, you heard me right a crochet bra. I absolutely love making these. I can choose whatever color or fiber blends I want and I can make about 5 bras a skein depending on the size. This makes the price of a bra go from like 20$ for any decently fitting bra to less than 1$ for a bra that is custom fit to each individual person.

This crochet bra doesn’t use an underwire, I can’t stand them and they always poke me in my store-bought bras. Instead, we will be working a tight row of stitches along the bottom of the cups. You can use a smaller stitch for this as well, and it acts as an underwire that doesnt constantly slip out.

The one we will be making today is made with just a super saver yarn making this one specifically more suited for the winter. However, you could also use a cotton blend yarn in the same weight to make one for the warmer months or if you want to use a softer yarn for this.

Let’s get our supplies ready and start crocheting!

Supplies

For the bra in the picture, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color minty. This pattern works fantastic a lot of different yarns though so far I’ve used Red heart with love the glittery ones, and some Caron Simply Soft. You can also use Iceyarns saver which is a great option if ordering online. http://bit.ly/2uRmoEP

5mm/H hook, 4.55mm (optional, this can be used for creating the tight row of stitches under the breast) I use the crochet hooks from the clover amour set which you can find on Amazon here Clover hook set

A darning needle- For weaving in ends and attaching your straps.

Button- this goes in the back so you can clasp your bra.

Sewing needle and thread- This will be for sewing the button on in the end.

Abbreviations

Ch- Chain

HDC- Half double crochet

DC- Double crochet

SC- Single crochet

Slst- Slip stitch

Cups

This pattern can be worked in 3 sizes, the first size is meant to fit A-B cup, the second size is meant to fit a C cup, and the last size is meant to fit D-DD cup.

Make 2 of these.

Ch 15 (18) (20)

Row 1- Hdc in the second ch from hook, then in each ch across, turn.

Row 2-9- Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch across, turn.

Row 10-Ch 1, 1 hdc in stitch across until you reach the last stitch.

• 3 hdc in the last stitch.
• Place a stitch marker in the second hdc of the three you just placed.
• Turn your work so it’s now facing down the side of your work. Work 1 hdc into the side of each row. Turn. (25) (28) (30)

Row 11- Ch 1, work 1 hdc into each stitch until you reach your stitch marker.

• Remove your stitch marker and work 3 hdc into the stitch you removed your stitch marker from.
• Continue working 1 hdc in each remaining stitch. Turn.
• For D-DD cup repeat this row until row 14, finish the rest of the pattern normally.

Rows 12-14- Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch across, turn.

Rows 15-17- Ch 2, DC in each stitch across, turn.

• After row 17 instead of turning your work, you should now be in the top corner of your cup. Begin going down the side placing 2 sc per DC row, and 1 sc per hdc row down the entire side.
• Once you reach the bottom turn and sc in only the bottom loop of your foundation chains. You will not be adding another row on top so aim to make these stitches tight enough that you don’t think you will be able to fit your hook in the stitches. This will act as your underwire.
• Once you work into all of the foundation chains continue working onto where the sides of your rows are again working 2 sc per DC row and 1 sc per hdc row. Keep these stitches tight as well as they are still along the bottom.
• Once you finish along the bottom turn back up onto the side and work 1 sc in the first 4 stitches around the side.
• Tie off leaving an extra-long tail.
• Using the 4 stitches you added on at the very end and the long tail you left behind stitch the 2 cups together using only those 4 stitches, then weave in all of your ends.

Rib Band

You can work these by either attaching it into the lower corner of the cup and working it directly onto the cup or working them off of the cups and sewing them on later. Either way, it looks great; it just depends on personal preference.

Either tie on and work 1 hdc into the same stitch you tied on and into the next 3 stitches, so you have 4 hdc in total. Or ch 5.

Row 1- Work 1 hdc into each stitch making it 4 stitched.

Row 2-26- Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each stitch across, turn.

Tie off. Add a button onto the end of your band that goes with the color of yarn you chose.
Either tie off on row 26, or work until it fits snugly but comfortably around your ribs.

For the second ribband, you will need to add buttonholes. Start this side the same way as you started the last rib band though.

Row 1- Hdc in each stitch across so it equals 4 stitches

Rows 2-20- Ch 1, hdc in each stitch across, turn

Row 21- Ch 1, Hdc in first stitch, ch 2, work 1 hdc in the last stitch, turn

Row 22- Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch across, including the chain stitches so it equals 4 hdc again. turn

Row 23- Ch 1, hdc in first stitch, ch 2, work 1 hdc in the last stitch, turn

Row 24- Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch across, including the chain stitches so it equals 4 hdc again. turn

Row 25- Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch across, including the chain stitches so it equals 4 hdc again. turn

Row 26- Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch across, including the chain stitches so it equals 4 hdc again.

Tie off.

On this side, if you worked a different amount of stitches to reach around your ribs then begin working your buttonholes 6 rows before the end keeping it with 3 sizes.

Straps

These can be worked the same as the rib band either directly connected to the cups, or worked separately and sewed on after.

Ch 3

Row 1- Hdc in the second ch from hook and in the next ch, turn

Rows 2-54- Ch 1, hdc in each stitch across turn

Tie off.

Again, if 54 rows do not fit you then work it until it does comfortably fit. The straps should be a little tight in the beginning, however, because they provide the majority of the support for your breasts and they will most likely stretch. Also, since they do most of the supporting of this crochet bra you want them tight to help hold your girls where they should be.

Finishing up Your Crochet Bra

If you worked the rib band and straps separate now you will have to stitch them on. Make sure when you are doing this that you connect into the corner stitch, this will make a cleaner-looking seam.

Now you can go ahead and try on your new crochet bra, and make a few more so you can wear them even when one is in the wash!

Conclusion

I hope you all enjoyed this pattern today, I love making bras and will definitely be bringing you more crochet bra patterns in the future. If you do create this, or any other item using the patterns I design I would absolutely love to see your creations, and you can post them here https://crochetwithkim.com/qltk on the crochet with Kim facebook group. I hope to see you all back here again if you would like to be kept up to date on future plans for patters, and giveaways then sign up for my newsletter!

I hope you all have a great day and as always happy hooking!

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Related Crochet Patterns

If you would like to see some other women’s clothing patterns I have several other available on here!

For a collared crochet halter top view here https://crochetwithkim.com/2r42

If you would like bralette style crochet top then check out this pattern https://crochetwithkim.com/wi87